JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS, vol.19, no.2, pp.685-699, 2022 (SCI-Expanded)
Nowadays, denim consumers are more interested in esthetic and garment comfort features such as softness, lightweight and smoothness. Coating method is widely used to impart esthetic and functional properties to denim fabrics. It is a known fact that the coating process adversely affects various mechanical and comfort properties of fabrics. This study presents identifying of the optimum levels of the coating process parameters for combination of tear strength and stiffness properties of cotton/elastane blend denim fabrics by Taguchi method (TM) and Grey relational analysis (GRA). Denim fabric samples were coated with a standard paste used for coloring the fabric surfaces by the Rotary Screen Coating Method. The selected parameters are weft density, drying temperature, viscosity of coating fluid, squeeze pressure and fabric passing speed. First, each output was individually optimized by TM, and then all outputs were optimized together taking into account the primacy of the goals by TM and GRA. For all outputs, the most effective parameters were found as the weft density and the fabric passing speed, respectively. Consequently, optimal common combination for multi-performances was found as 14 picks/cm weft density, 160 degrees C drying temperature, 50 dPa.s viscosity, 3 bar squeeze pressure, 30 m/min fabric passing speed.